Noob's guide to debricking through ATK :D

[qlob]

Honestly no.

[knc1]

Originally Posted by xray

Okay so any Idea why after charging for 4 days it would not complete the debrick?

Over discharging a Li-Ion battery reduces its storage capacity.

First try putting a full charge on the battery while it is out of the Kindle.
If it then will not hold enough charge to complete the operations, replace the battery, it is shot.

[xray]

How do you charge it if it is out of the kindle? Okay I found 2 batteries if I have to replace one is only 13.00 from blue grass whole sellers off amazon .com and the other is a new power 99 for 23.00. Both are 1900ma at 3.7volts.
new power 99 has a 1yr warranty and tools for changing the battery. while cheap one does not. I have the tools just wondering which battery is better if there is any difference at all?

[xray]

Could some one please change step 6 to step 5 and step five to step in 6 in the debricking guide this caused me a great deal of confusion until I finally figured out that step 6 had to be done first so that atk would see the kindle. I don't need it now but I am sure that it would be appreciated by the next noob trying to debrick for the first time.

[qlob]

Originally Posted by xray

Could some one please change step 6 to step 5 and step five to step in 6 in the debricking guide this caused me a great deal of confusion until I finally figured out that step 6 had to be done first so that atk would see the kindle. I don't need it now but I am sure that it would be appreciated by the next noob trying to debrick for the first time.

You can do it, everyone can edit a wiki.

[xray]

I did not know that it is now fixed.

[xray]

Well charged for 3 days again and after about 1.5hrs connection lost and it appears the battery is dead. I ordered a new batt from amazon znd will report after I receive it charge and then debrick my kindle finally. At this point I think the battery was my problem all along but since my kindle was only 1.5yrs old never dreamed the battery would be dead already. I did not know that fully discharged lion was such a bad thing it is the complete opposite of a nicad apparently. Live and learn.

[knc1]

Originally Posted by xray

At this point I think the battery was my problem all along but since my kindle was only 1.5yrs old never dreamed the battery would be dead already. I did not know that fully discharged lion was such a bad thing it is the complete opposite of a nicad apparently. Live and learn.

As GM posted recently, the useful life of Li-Ion is greatly dependent on their use history.

The ones in hybrid electric cars that some manufacturer's claim will last for ten years have much more computer control over the battery management routines than a Kindle does.

But then it costs a lot less than the $10,000 for a new car battery when you replace the Kindle battery.

[geekmaster]

Some Apple notebooks also claim to have 10-year batteries, but you pay a premium price for those...

Lithium batteries do NOT like to be overly discharged. Nor should they be stored with a full charge. For storage or safe transport, 40 to 50% charge is good (but no more than 70%).

In fact, for mission-critical batteries (such as used in military/police/fire/medical equipment), they are never charged past 70% of an otherwise identical "consumer device" battery, for maximum lifespan.

The kindles even have a "shipping mode" script, that DISCHARGES the battery to below 70% (which can also be done in the kindle diagnostic menus).

[knc1]

At the rate of advancement in battery technology, I imagine that when today's hybrid car batteries are in need of replacement (10+ years) - -
The replacement will look something like a "power pellet" - giving the owner lots of new storage space.

[xray]

So if I understand what you are saying is a lithium batt has a useful range between like 30 & 70% above or below that is detrimental to the life span of the battery. This would explain why my cordless power tool batteries have not lasted as long as my old fashioned nicad powered tools which lasted so much longer. Even though they are larger and heavier I think for cordless stuff I prefer nicad as long as you fully discharge on a regular basis they do not build a memory and last a long time. Thank you for all of the great info now that I am educated a little I should at least be able to maximize the life of my batteries.

[twobob]

Originally Posted by xray

So if I understand what you are saying is a lithium batt has a useful range between like 30 & 70% above or below that is detrimental to the life span of the battery. This would explain why my cordless power tool batteries have not lasted as long as my old fashioned nicad powered tools which lasted so much longer. Even though they are larger and heavier I think for cordless stuff I prefer nicad as long as you fully discharge on a regular basis they do not build a memory and last a long time. Thank you for all of the great info now that I am educated a little I should at least be able to maximize the life of my batteries.

I second this sentiment. knowledge is power.

My devices are hardly ever unplugged. They live on various devices that provide power around the home (like that spare usb socket on the router that no-one ever uses for example, or the TV, or the Fibre link etc etc...)

Hopefully this wont hurt them too much as the simplicity of never actually worrying about if they are on charge is better for me.

(heck even the one on the piano is constantly charged by the nearby telephone hehehe)

Please please please santa make my device live for ever and a day. thanks.


Back to your regular scheduled thread content.

[geekmaster]

Originally Posted by twobob

I second this sentiment. knowledge is power. ..

That "power" thing was a pun (batteries and all), right?

For more great info on batteries (especially lithium batteries), check out the stuff here:
http://batteryuniversity.com/

EDIT: Lithium batteries are popular for many things (especially cell phones) because they have a great power-to-weight ratio, so that they can go a long time between charges (when used in 100% charge "consumer mode"), while remaining light in wieght and small in size. These lithium battery properties also made tiny remote control flying toys possible (and popular). In fact, I have one of these great little radio-control quad copters (and it comes with a spare battery and extra blades, and less than $45USD including shipping):
http://www.tmart.com/UDI-U816-24GHz-...e_p151205.html

[twobob]

Originally Posted by geekmaster

Some Apple notebooks also claim to have 10-year batteries, but you pay a premium price for those...

Lithium batteries do NOT like to be overly discharged. Nor should they be stored with a full charge. For storage or safe transport, 40 to 50% charge is good (but no more than 70%).

In fact, for mission-critical batteries (such as used in military/police/fire/medical equipment), they are never charged past 70% of an otherwise identical "consumer device" battery, for maximum lifespan.

The kindles even have a "shipping mode" script, that DISCHARGES the battery to below 70% (which can also be done in the kindle diagnostic menus).

Would be nice to amend the charging params so that 70% = 100%

I would hate to have to constantly unplug them. This would be a better solution...

Hmm. Wonder where one might go about achieving that?

[geekmaster]

Originally Posted by twobob

Would be nice to amend the charging params so that 70% = 100%

I would hate to have to constantly unplug them. This would be a better solution...

Hmm. Wonder where one might go about achieving that?

With only 70% maximum charge, you may need to charge more often (depending on your device), which would shorten the lifespan. There is a tradeoff between too much charge and too many charges. For a given device, you would need to find the "knee of the curve" between mAh/charge and total charges.

I think that the kindle uses so little energy that perhaps charging it to 70% more often may extend the total life, so perhaps your idea is a sound one.

To test it, perhaps you can use the shipping mode script (or diags test) to charge it to 70%. Custom charging firmware could perhaps be based on that script, but perhaps it may be even easier just by programming a /proc or /sys file from a startup script...