08-12-2015, 07:59 PM | #61 | |
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Quote:
I think I have the chemistry at work cornered, see attached. I do have the chemistry cornered. New record: 4 seconds to etch a board vs 20 minutes for the most common, commercial, etchant. Surprise, surprise, you don't need that H2O2 after all. Still to do, update observations and conclusions, but the WIP document is attached as of today. This stuff is old news: Spoiler:
Edit: Attachment updated 08/21/15. Last edited by knc1; 08-21-2015 at 06:01 PM. |
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08-14-2015, 05:17 PM | #62 |
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Updated my notes attached to the above post.
Still not yet done - I need to experimentally confirm what I wrote (or figure out what I should have written). My only excuse for taking so long on this part of the project is that my most recent chemistry course was over a 1/2 century ago. |
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08-15-2015, 11:24 PM | #63 |
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More progress - -
Would you believe it? Those molecules join up with each other just as described in the book(s)! Translation: I got the experimental trials to match with the reaction equations in the document. New record: Single sided board with 2oz copper plate, etched bare in 5 seconds. Set some records on distance from work table that things got splattered at the same time. Ah, heck, I didn't need that kitchen anyway. |
08-21-2015, 06:03 PM | #64 |
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New record, 4 seconds.
Those still waiting for their Hydrogen peroxide - you can stop waiting, you don't need it. Details and attached document updated, see: https://www.mobileread.com/forums/sho...3&postcount=61 |
08-24-2015, 06:16 PM | #65 |
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Impressive! Keep up the good work~
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08-24-2015, 09:06 PM | #66 |
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08-25-2015, 09:30 AM | #67 | ||
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Quote: "Copper is non-reactive with acids." Which is true enough, but consider the only things present (by intent) in the 4 second etch solution is: Copper, Hydrochloric acid, Acetic acid, and water. So, as far as the basics go, that "Can not work (tm)." Yet it does, it works the fastest of any solutions tried. - - - - - I think that the key to what is happening was published by Dennis W. Hess in 2001, see: http://www.researchgate.net/publicat...ng_Acetic_Acid You can read in the abstract his description of what happens when Copper is cleaned with a weak solution of Acetic acid followed by allowing to dry (in dry nitrogen - away from oxygen and moisture) VS being rinsed in de-ionized water. I.E: Quote:
Acids most definitely react with cupric hydroxide! Which may indeed be the key to what is happening. Now, back to the kitchen, see if I can cook up an explanation. - - - - Note: Dr. Hess was using X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy for his determinations. My kitchen isn't equipped that well, but I'll think of something. #8,000 Last edited by knc1; 08-25-2015 at 09:56 AM. |
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10-18-2015, 04:45 AM | #68 |
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Looking for sign on a chip
Hi guys!
I have kindle 7th and when i tried to fix problem with usb connector suddenly i destroyed chip under U1102 sign (please see attached image). Can someone help me with name of that chip Thank you in advance |
10-18-2015, 05:10 AM | #69 |
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What do you mean by Kindle 7th generation?
Amazon has at least 3 devices they attach that phrase to. Use the first few characters of your device's serial number and this chart: https://wiki.mobileread.com/wiki/Kindle_Serial_Numbers to find the model distinctive nickname used at this forum. What do you mean 'destroyed'? It looks fine in that picture you attached. Since it is directly connected to D-, D+ (pins 2 and 3) it must be some sort of USB, PHY chip. Plus, keep in mind that is (well, is supposed to be) an OTG port connector. (The connector pins, left to right, are: 5V, D-, D+, ID, Gnd in addition to the standard's interface signals, the Kindle's have a "charger source" detection on D- and D+) Sometimes intense, transverse, lighting will pick up the identification markings. Last edited by knc1; 10-18-2015 at 05:25 AM. |
10-18-2015, 08:18 AM | #70 |
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Dear knc1, thank you for your reply!
Attached picture to my previous message is a part of the picture that i found in this thread. My kindle pcb looks completely the same. To this message i've attached photo of my PCB - you can see tracks of my activities there. Few weeks ago my PC stopped to recognize my kindle, meanwhile it charging w/o any problems. After short investigations i found that 2 middle pins (D- D+) of usb jack lost connection with pcb. So i decided to soldering them back. Suddenly there was an accident that destroyed part of the chip (body of that chip were badly damaged) under U1102 sign. Now i'm looking for that chip to replace. Tomorrow i will check serial number of the kindle to find out model name. |
10-18-2015, 08:36 AM | #71 | |
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What you describe is a "power only" USB cable. That model is too new for you to have worn out the connector. They are rated at over 50,000 insertions. You haven't done that, even if you spent every minute connecting and dis-connecting the USB cable since you bought the Kindle. You can find your device's serial number listed on your Amazon, Kindle Account page(s) - no need to put it back together. What you have is not a KT2 - The KT2 uses a surface mount USB connector, not that mid-line mount USB connector. My bad, I was looking at the wrong picture in my picture gallery. I understand you want the part number of the chip. Let me re-word my earlier answer: I do not know, you will have to look at yours using an intense, transversal, light. Since you found the photo in this thread - then you may have a PW-2, which I do not have. (There are some PW-2 photos in this KT2 thread.) OR That is a different board revision than the one I have. = = = = Destroying the plastic, molded, chip package does nothing to the chip - Unless you mean you have exposed the actual silicon chip and its bonded wire connections. Even then, you probably haven't done any damage to the chip unless you also destroyed the bonded wire connections. But your attached picture, under magnification, does seem to show that you have lifted the traces between the connector and the chip. I suggest that you find yourself access to a hot air, smd re-work station - remove both the chip and the connector (using a quality solder removing paste) - clean the board - repair the pads and traces - then replace the parts - Note: both the connector and the chip look re-usable. Last edited by knc1; 10-18-2015 at 08:52 AM. |
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10-18-2015, 09:03 AM | #72 |
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Did you try a different USB cable?
yes, a lot of them. i saw under magnifier that D+ D- has no contact with pcb I do not know, you will have to look at yours using an intense, transversal, light. surface of the chip is damaged with soldering Iron so sign is destroyed That is a different board revision than the one I have. On the first message of this thread there is an image attached with name "bottom-right.jpg". I see a chip there under sign U1102 - its exactly what i need. |
10-18-2015, 09:32 AM | #73 | |
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It may be several days before I can get to it. Why don't you just put the Kindle back together and return it to Amazon for exchange? It is still under warrenty. |
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10-18-2015, 09:44 AM | #74 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
Also not sure that this Kindle under warranty after my exercises with soldering-iron. |
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10-18-2015, 11:50 AM | #75 | |
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That puts you about 10 time zones away from the closest store. Might make it a bit hard to take back. = = = = Just for our casual readers - The way Amazon runs their mail-in exchange, they send your replacement before they receive your return. When they do receive your return, they just toss it in the recycle bin without taking the time to check them out. The labor cost in inspecting returns is too high for them to do anything else. |
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