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Old 04-17-2013, 07:35 AM   #24481
desertblues
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(excerpts from my travel journal for western China; please excuse grammar and such......bad wifi and little chance/time to check it.)

(end of 16-04)
In one of the alleys in the muslim quarter is the former residence of an important man at the imperial court of the Ming dynasty, Gao Yue Song. Seven generations of his family live here and all have an official position in the royal palace. This family house, build in the 16th century(2517 sq.m.) has three seperate courtyards and four storeys. The 56 of the 86 rooms that are open for the public are decorated in the Ming- and Qing style: a beautifully carved bed with red silk draperies and bedlinnen and the same in yellow silk for a dark hardwood bed. Painted geometric designs and lotus on chests and cupboards. As in the streets of the muslim quarter, there a many tiny birds in cages, singing away. They all have Chinese decorated water bowls in their wooden cages. Even some beo's, shouting ' hello, hello'. Several plants in pots, trees and small fountain make this complex a pleasant place to walk or sit.

At the end of the afternoon I take a cab to an extremely crowded station for the last train on this journey. People sit on the floor in the hall. I see a man with two heavy loads balanced on a large pole.
A nice Chinese girl, a chemical scientist, sleeps in the same compartment. We talk a bit about our countries, but there's a vacuum. I would like to ask her about Mao's cultural revolution of 1966, when teachers, intellectuals and many cultural things are destroyed, but hé....I'm a guest and we circle about other topics as well....

17-04 Xī'ān to Bejing
Beijing (pop. 20,693,000.) ‘ Nothern Capital' has a history of three millenia. It is the last of the Four Great Ancient Capitals of China and has been a political center for much of the past seven centuries. Bejing is a stop in the history of human evolution as well. The earliest traces of human habitation are found in the caves of Dragon Bone Hill near Zhoukoudian in the Fangshan District, where the Peking Man, homo erectus, lived 230,000 to 250,000 years ago.

After an hours ride I'm in an traditional pagode like hotel, in the middle of an ancient part of this huge modern town; the cab can hardly get through, past the eating stalls, other vendors and tricycles. Washing hangs in between lampposts on lines. Wheezing dirt white Pekinese dogs search for food in the rubble. I have some wifi in the hotel; linked to my passport......it takes me a while to figure that out....

Beautiful weather for sightseeing it is, 18 C. Near the hotel is a Tibetan temple, the Lama Temple or Yonghe Gong. This building used to be part of a mansion; build in 1694 by the Kangxi emperor. In the next centuries Lamas (spiritual leaders/teachers) of Tibetan, Mongolian and Manchu origin study here. These days pilgrims pray, prostate themseves and light incense on splendid bronze burners before the different Buddha's and offer money. I see saffron yellow robed monk and one of two dark red robed.
Again a magnificent complex with dark red buildings, pagoda's decorated with gold, blue and yellow. Slanted roofs with lions, dragons, birds and others. Beautiful wall paintings, huge copper praying wheels and innumerable images of Buddha's and deities.

Lunch is in a vegetarian restaurant a few blocks further on, opposite the Confucian Temple. I have never seen the likes of it. I eat from a buffet of about fifty different choices: veg. chicken, veg. fried pork, several fried mushrooms, veg. beef, nudels, rice, veg.chicken curry. One also can stir fry at the table, on a small fire. There's dragonfruit, fruit jellies and so on. xuxianggzhai.com

On to Confucius (551-479 B.C), who is worshipped from 175 B.C. on; a religious cult based on a kind of hero worship, under the Chinese emperors. Confucius aspires a peaceful world, run by a moral elite. Confucian thought is deeply associated with the Chinese civil service examinations, for staffing it's bureaucracy. The aim: testing the candidate's knowledge of an elaborate canon of ancient books, memorizing texts of 400,000 Chinese characters and the ability to write essays on didactic subjets. From the name of the earliest degree holder in 1313 all names are engraved on a stone.
Confucius teachings are attacked in the 20th century, but since the 1980ies there's a revival of his ideas, and State sponsored Confucian institutes are opening in foreign countries.

All buildings and courtyards in this ancient temple (1306) breaths Confucius teachings. There's the Gate of the First Teacher, reserved for the Emperor, the Hall of Perfection with a huge set of Stone tablets preserving the texts of 13 Confucian classics. The Pool of Water for Inkstones is said to have given sage thoughts to anyone drinking from it, and so on. And I see the museum on Confucius life. Many gigling Chinese girls in school uniform take their picture with Confucius. It must be on the currucilum.

Next is the Imperial Academy, also build in 1306 by the Yuan dynasty, the grandson of Kublai Khan. There is all for the students: dormotories, a vegetable garden and a huge library. From the 13-20 th century, it's students come from China and tributary states as Siam, Korea, Annam, but also Russians.
The entrance is a magnificent three gate archway; red with white arches, topped by three pagodes with green and yellow glazed tiles, decorated with lions and dragons. Most of the buildings are red, with slanted roofs and eaves painted and decorated in green and blue. Ancient gnarled trees in it's courtyards and new fruit trees.

And an early night after an exhausting night rattling around in the train. Dinner: bananas and beer. Another two days in Bejing and then home again.

In my cup: Pu- er tea. Never drank it.....
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Old 04-17-2013, 01:43 PM   #24482
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Morning, all. Thanks for the travel journal, desertblues, I continue to enjoy it. And thanks, stitchy for my morning song.

In my cup: TWC Imperial Keemun. Another excellent Keemun, but definitely overpriced. (FWIW, so far I've only found one Keemun I like enough more than my standard Peet's Lion Mountain Keemun that I'm willing to pay a premium price for, and that's Teaspring's Keemun Xian Zhen. But at a 400% premium, I don't drink it often!)
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Old 04-17-2013, 03:22 PM   #24483
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On my second mug of tea. My thanks for the travelogue as well, desertblues!
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Old 04-17-2013, 03:26 PM   #24484
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Another great travel account, thank you desertblues. I hope your trip back home is comfortable.

It is cold and very windy today, again, so the heater is on and I am waiting for a fresh cup of coffee to brew.
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:14 PM   #24485
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A new mini van in the drive way. A salad made from freshly picked greens. A sleeping baby and a soon to be sleeping Mommy
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:01 AM   #24486
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A new mini van in the drive way.
Congratulations. Now, you will have room for everyone; mom, dad, the dogs, Lucas, and the next one.

Fresh coffee in my cup and going to get a bowl of M&M's.
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Old 04-18-2013, 03:26 AM   #24487
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:06 AM   #24488
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Tonic and lemon with my tea (the meal not the drink)
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:16 AM   #24489
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Fresh coffee in my cup and going to get a bowl of M&M's.
Dreams, if you turn those little things upside down, they become W&W, as in 'Weight Watchers.' Much better for you that way!

I'm about to fashion a lemon and lime drink for myself, with a bit of club soda on the rocks! I will pretend that there is Bombay Sapphire in there too, but it's only make believe. No alcohol for me except Sunday nights for the next four weeks.


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Old 04-18-2013, 08:39 AM   #24490
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(excerpts from my travel journal for western China; please excuse grammar and such......bad wifi and little chance/time to check it.)

(18-04 Bejing)
A very nice breakfast, with the chef stir- frying an omelette chopped herbs, tomato and onion. Then by subway to the Tiān ānmén Square Square and the Forbidden City. Ticket is not expensive, 2 yuan (25 cts). It is rush hour, 8 o'clock.

First to the Tiān ānmén Square which is the largest public square of the world (440,000 sq.metres). It is flanked by Soviet- style buildings. In the middle of the square is the symbolic center of China. In his days Mao Zedong viewed the parades here.
There is a lot of police visible, and before walking the square one has to pass bags and selves through a scanner. It is a huge paved place, crowded with groups of Chinese tourists wearing a different colored cap/ hat per group. It is not a place for resting one's legs, as there are no benches and loitering is not welcomed. Well, as it is only some 15 degrees and a fierce cold wind, loitering is the last thing on my mind. I would have liked to see Mao' s tomb and his embalmed remains though, but there is a too long waiting line.

Long before this square is furnished with official buildings ( in the 50ies)as The Great Hall of the people, the Museum of Chinese history, it regularly plays a political role in Chinese history. The most recent is in 1989 the Tiān ānmén Square protests against the government, led by students. They occupy the square, but after seven weeks troops and tanks march in and many civilians are killed. Western governments condemn China and impose economic sanctions and embargoes.

Next to this immense square is the Forbidden City. On it's outer wall a huge portrait of Mao Zedong, where he proclaims the People's Republic in 1949.
The Forbidden City is the Chinese imperial palace from the Ming Dynasty to the end of the Qing Dynasty. For almost 500 years, two dynasties, it serves as the home of emperors, as well as the ceremonial and political center of Chinese government. Build in 1406-1420, the complex consists of 980 buildings and covers 720,000 sq.m. It shows traditional Chinese palatial architecture. It is listed by the UNESCO as the largest collection of preserved ancient wooden structures in the world.

There are many guides offering their services, but I take an audio tour. And as it says in the travel guide: one can turn an audio guide off at will.
And it is fantastic....glazed ceramic roof creatures as many as ten: dragon, phoenix for harmony/nobility, the lion for ferocity, heavenly horse and seahorse for good fortune and so on. The color of the roof tiles is yellow for imperial, blue-green-black-unglazed for the rest. The major buildings are built on marble terraces....as high as 7 meters ( the Three great Halls). All imperial buildings face south and usually have three sets of staircases.
There are several gates, halls, palaces and pavillions; many of them with poetic names as: The Gate of supreme harmony, Rain and flower pavillion, Palace of heavenly purity, Earthly tranquillity palace or Hall of preserving harmony. In the imperial gardens are ancient cypresses and miniature mountains in water, made of large irregular chunks of limestone....a crucial element in a classical Chinese garden.

It is too much to see in one day, so I stick to the audiotour as much as I can. It is automatically activated when I'm near a certain building and it tells good stories about it all.
The Forbidden city houses many other buildings beside the imperial: living quarters of servants and others, librairies, temples, theatres, ten Buddhist temples, the palace's ceremonial buildings, imperial gardens and the tennis court of the last emperor.

In 1912 the era of the Emperors is past as China becomes an (unstable)republic with Sun Yatsen and the nationalist party, the Kuomintang. The abdicated emperor and his household live in the Forbidden City till 1924. In 1935 Mao Zedong begins his famous Long March on the run from the Kuomintang. In 1949 he proclaims the People's Republic of China, a one-party state. A few years after the power struggle after Mao's death in 1976, the right wing reformers, led by Deng Xiaoping take control. They reform the Chinese economy and de-emphasize the role of Maoist ideology. China opens up to the world, to a degree, in 1978.

Ai, ai, still some shopping to do..... I take a walk along the Qianmen road, with it' s historic buildings (used to be foreign embasies) which houses the luxurous shops now. But the alley behind it, with the typical Chinese food stalls is much more lively, so I take the plunge there to buy some last knick- knacks.

And dinner in the excellent vegetarian testaurant, opposite the Confucius Temple: veg.roasted duck, veg.meatballs, sweet/sour bean curd cubes, veg.roasted pork, veg.steamed fish....I'm going to miss it.

On my way back, the alley where the hotel is, has come into night life: red lightened lampions above the street and everywhere signs of cooking and eating. Never mind the traffic; the occasionally cab, tricycle or bicycle. At the fishplace a dozen or so are chopsticking away at a large platter with fish, also oysters. Never knew one could tackle those slippery things with chopsticks. Improvist barbeque of an oil drum with a metal rack, corncobs steam in a huge pan, red melons on a platter, dumplings stacked in wooden steamers. And tea, lots of tea.

(19-04 Bejing)
Tomorrow will be my very last day on this exciting journey. I'll try to see some last sights, perhaps the Summer Palace if I can find the time, but a part of the day will be spend travelling. I will be sorry to say goodbye to all wonders of Central Asia and western China, but.........home......!

I enjoyed this journey very much. I loved Central Asia, especially the crossing on the Pamir highway. That was unforgettable; the views, the rough landscape, snow storms and bitter cold. And a close second in China were the Buddhist caves in Dun Huang with the 34 meter high Buddha. And don't forget the Labrang monastery in Xiáhè; that atmosphere with the soft flute and cymbals, the tiny birds chirping in the Muslim quarter of Xian, the terracotta army....
Every part of the journey had it's own wonders.

And the people I gave my tiny ceramic Dutch clogs.....they loved it; to the giggling girls in Tasjkent who practised their English on me, the Uzbek woman in the train with the gold capped teeth, the waiting women at the border Uzbekistan- Khyrgyzia, the children on the Pamir mountains, the driver that drove us along the snowy mountains, the police officer at the lonely outpost near China, the hotel owner in Xiáhè, the young monk in the Labrang monastery, the pregnant girl in the train to Xian, the ancient Chinese man who smiled and bowed at me in Xian's muslim quarter....I remember them all.

I liked sharing my adventures with you and thank you for your kind words along the way. I will be working hard when I get back, but I'll post the pic's of the souvenirs I bought and as soon as I finished my travel journal + photo's, I'll let you know in the ' what's in my cup".

And soon........Bejing- Istanbul- Amsterdam

In my cup: Yasmin tea
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Old 04-18-2013, 03:59 PM   #24491
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Dreams, if you turn those little things upside down, they become W&W, as in 'Weight Watchers.' Much better for you that way! <snip>
Cute. I eat very well and whenever I wish, but I also enjoy chocolate. I do watch portions and eat about 6-8 times a day not counting snacks. I have always done this and am lucky that I don't have to watch my weight or what I want to eat. Although, I have just recently decided that maybe I should start to exercise - walking - to keep my bones and muscles healthy and strong.
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<snip> I liked sharing my adventures with you and thank you for your kind words along the way. I will be working hard when I get back, but I'll post the pic's of the souvenirs I bought and as soon as I finished my travel journal + photo's, I'll let you know in the ' what's in my cup". <snip>
I'm looking forward to all your photos.

Coffee in my cup.
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:15 PM   #24492
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Hey, who brought back winter??? It's cold (8C), wet and windy here today, and I'm not enjoying it. Nor are the chickens who are mostly huddled up on the front stairs under the overhang, doing what chickens do...

Ah, well, the cleanup is tomorrow's problem.

Meanwhile, Peet's Pride of the Port tea in my mug. Your basic "cuppa", but a good one.
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:41 PM   #24493
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Come over to the window, my little darling,
I'd like to try to read your palm.
I used to think I was some kind of Gypsy boy
Before I let you take me home.

Now so long, Marianne, it's time that we began
To laugh and cry and cry and laugh about it all again.

( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDj5T8-H2R8 )

Good morning, everyone! Friday, and a wonderful day for talking a walk! 15 degrees and sunny, and no chores to do! I don't mind at all. There is Ahmad's "English Breakfast" tea in my cup, a little rice and a few Kalamata olives and prosciutto for flavor, and plans for another 10km walkabout.

Speaking of 'walkabout,' has anyone heard from SneakySnake lately? I had her e-mail addy once but don't know where I put it.

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Old 04-18-2013, 08:35 PM   #24494
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Beautiful day today. Lucas was in a good mood, the new car drives great, the dogs are good, and much tea was consumed.
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:35 PM   #24495
wyndslash
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languages, tea enthusiasts, what is in your cup?

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