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Old 05-09-2009, 02:37 PM   #76
jboardman
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battery upgrade

Here is what I have done. I have downloaded the zip file 0.90. In that zip are a file folder entitled src. Also there are three files: battery.o, powerMgr and start.sh (actually 4, including the README). I have created the /lib/modules/2.4.19-rmk7-pxa2-irex1/kernel/drivers/irex folder and in the /irex folder I have placed the battery.o file. In the already existing /usr/bin folder I have copied the powerMgr file. In the /home/root folder I have placed the start.sh file. I have then turned off the device and turned it back on (reboot). I still only get 12 - 14 hours out of the batteries (2 - 2800s). Am I missing something? Am I supposed to do something with the /src directory and subfiles in the zip? PLEASE HELP THIS DUMMY!

Thanks
Jim
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Old 05-13-2009, 12:10 PM   #77
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what am I doing wrong?

jharker:
I have installed the software exactly as you have described. I am using 2.12 firmware. I don't seem to get any more time out of the new batteries.

Jim Boardman


Quote:
Originally Posted by jharker View Post
UPDATED Jan 31, 2009 : Upgraded software to version 0.90 (Attachment 22417). Please read the changed description in Step 6.

Introduction

With my iLiad out of warranty, I decided to take inspiration from Calviny's experiment and replace the original batteries with higher-capacity ones. The following is a rough guide to how I did it, with pictures.

WARNING

I have put other warnings in here, but I want to emphasize that doing this can potentially wreck your iLiad in many, many ways. Performing this mod will definitely void your warranty.

Most important is to be VERY careful to prevent short-circuits. I strongly recommend putting a liberal helping of electrical tape on all exposed electrical contacts and circuit boards before putting the case back together. Also, be aware that the exposed edges of the silver plastic battery wrapper can be slightly conductive, so I recommend taping them too.

Also, the batteries are thick and fit snugly in the case. If you force anything during reassembly you could easily break your screen. Make sure it fits, and don't press too hard!

If you are very careful and take plenty of precautions, this can be an easy mod that greatly enhances your iLiad experience. But please, please be careful! This guide comes with no guarantee, and I take no responsibility if you break your iLiad while following it.

Equipment

To do this you will need to own and be able to use the following tools, at minimum:
  • A #6 Torx screwdriver
  • An X-ACTO knife, razor blade, or other sharp tool
  • A voltmeter/multimeter
  • A decent soldering iron
For the current implementation you will also need ssh access to your iLiad, or at the very least shell access plus the ability to write a few simple scripts. If there is enough interest I may provide an installer for the necessary software in the future.

Step 1: Open the case

The iLiad's case is very easy to open:
  1. Remove the stylus and any memory cards or card blanks.
  2. There are 12 screws on the back. Use the #6 Torx to unscrew and remove them all. Put them aside, somewhere safe.
  3. The case will open easily along the top and one side. To open the bottom and other side, carefully slide a credit card down the edge to release the hooks.
  4. The battery and speaker wires connect the front of the case to the back of the case. They can be unplugged carefully to allow the two halves of the case to be separated.
  5. Set aside the front half of the case.
  6. Remove the speaker and the battery assembly from the back half of the case. They are affixed in with double-stick tape and may be a little difficult to pull out. Be careful not to stress or damage the battery circuit board.

Figure 1: The back of the iLiad. All 12 screws are indicated with arrows.


Figure 2: The front half of the iLiad shell, containing the motherboard and the screen.


Step 2: New Batteries

The v1 iLiad's original batteries are two polymer lithium-ion batteries with a rated capacity of about 1100 mAh. (Contrary to what I said in my poem, the capacity is not printed on the outside as far as I can recall.) Calviny upgraded his iLiad with 1800 mAh cells, but I wanted to push the limit, so after some searching and measuring I picked out these:They're $15.95 each, or about $32 for two.

Each battery is 84mm x 50mm x 6mm thick, the same size as Calviny's except 1.8mm thicker. It turns out that this is not a problem, because the iLiad case has about 1.8mm of extra space inside. These batteries fit pretty well: it's snug, but for me at least there wasn't any major trouble getting them to fit.

Karel warned that fitting batteries too tightly might cause overheating or other problems, because lithium-ion batteries need to expand when charged. I haven't had any problems along those lines at all. There seems to be enough room at the battery edges to allow expansion. These particular batteries are also UL-listed, which means they should be resistant to explosion or catastrophic failure in the event that they are punctured or short-circuited.

Before you install the batteries:
  • Use the multimeter to be sure the batteries have the same charge.
  • Do this by measuring the voltage of each battery.
  • If the two batteries have the same voltage within +/- 0.010 volts, that's probably close enough.
  • If the batteries are not the same, you will need to drain one (or charge the other) in a controlled manner until they are the same.
  • WARNING : if the batteries have different voltages it is possible that you could fry the board when you solder them on. Be SURE to even them out first. This will also ensure you get maximum use of your batteries.

The batteries I received from BatterySpace.com were almost identical in charge, so this was no problem for me.


Step 3: Case Modification

The back half of the iLiad shell has plastic fins and posts that hold the original batteries in position and add structural integrity to the frame. You will need to remove them to make space for the new batteries, which will fit so snugly that they'll provide their own structural reinforcement.

Each plastic fin can be removed pretty easily by scoring along the base of each side with a sharp knife, and then bending it over until it snaps off. The posts are harder to remove, but with care and patience you can cut them away. Notice that I only removed the edges of the screw posts at the lower left and right; you want to just make enough space for the battery and leave the screw hole alone.


Figure 3a: Inside the iLiad's back case panel. Plastic bits that need to be removed are highlighted in red.


Figure 3b: My modded case with all plastic bits removed and shaved flush to the surface.


Step 4: Switch Batteries

Here is where you put your soldering skills to the test.
  1. Remove the old batteries from the battery control circuit board.
    • I tried solder wick at first, but it was easier to just heat each tab with the soldering iron, then push or pull it off.
  2. Solder on the new batteries.
    • There is not a lot of room, so put the batteries and circuit board in the case first. Get their relative positions correct before you solder.
    • Be careful not to accidentally short-circuit the battery terminals while soldering.
    • Be careful not to overheat the battery with the soldering iron. It might help to clip a heat sink to the base of the tab.
    • The new batteries are wider than the old ones, so the outer terminal tabs have to be folded at 90 degrees to reach the circuit board contacts.
  3. Apply electrical tape wherever necessary to guard against accidental short-circuits.
  4. Fold the circuit board back down into position. Make sure it's far enough down that the plug can still plug in to the motherboard jack when you re-assemble the case.
  5. Apply a strip of electrical tape along the top of the circuit board, covering the electrical contact points and exposed battery tabs. (Not shown in figures.) This will help prevent accidental short-circuits when the case is reassembled.

Figure 4: New batteries soldered to the circuit board in the case. The circuit board is bent up to show the soldering points.


Figure 5: Circuit board bent down into normal position, more electrical tape applied underneath. I also put another layer of electrical tape (not shown) across the top edge of the board and batteries.


Step 5: Re-assemble the case

Now you can put the case back together. I actually threw away the speaker at this point: it doesn't fit beside the new battery, and I never use it anyway. If you want to keep it I suppose you can shave down the other plastic bits and just move the speaker up a bit.

You will have to re-plug the battery board into the main circuit board before putting the case halves together. If the battery board is not down far enough the plug will pop out when you put the case together, so be sure to fold it down and push down the batteries as well.

Be careful and don't force anything. You don't want to break the screen. If it doesn't want to go, try to find what's in the way. Everything fits for me, so it should fit for you, but the first time it took me some fiddling to make everything sit just right.

Once everything snaps into place, try turning it on to be sure the battery connection is good. If it turns on, go ahead and screw the case back together!


Step 6: Replacement Software

Attachment 22417

For various reasons the iLiad does not always seem to recognize or adjust for a larger battery size, although it is (in principle) able to. The battery icon still goes to zero in 10-12 hours, and the powerMgr program will then automatically shut off the iLiad.

To solve this problem I modified the original battery.o kernel module and powerMgr program to use battery voltage to monitor the battery status. There are some small differences, but this approach keeps most of the original iLiad functionality.

This software should also support virtually any battery size. You can use it on the original iLiad as well, although you may not see any benefit from it.

Warning 1 : It is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED that you backup the original start.sh and powerMgr before installing this software. It is also recommended that you backup personal files and be prepared to reflash your iLiad if necessary. I take no responsibility if you brick your iLiad with this modification. I have tested it and it works for me, but it may not work for you.

Warning 2 : This software will ONLY work with lithium-ion / lithium-polymer batteries. Do NOT attempt to replace your iLiad's batteries with any other kind.

The above link contains the source code and binaries for the modified battery.o and powerMgr, as well as a modified start.sh startup script. More detailed information about the programs can be found in the README file. The binaries were compiled and tested for v2.11 iLiad software, but they should work for 2.12 as far as I know...?

You will have to manually install the files as follows:
  1. Manually create the directory "/lib/modules/2.4.19-rmk7-pxa2-irex1/kernel/drivers/irex".
  2. Copy battery.o to /lib/modules/2.4.19-rmk7-pxa2-irex1/kernel/drivers/irex/battery.o
  3. Copy powerMgr to /usr/bin/powerMgr
  4. Copy start.sh to /home/root/start.sh
  5. Reboot, and you're done!
With this newest software you do NOT have to fully charge the iLiad after installation, and you do NOT have to keep the iLiad on while charging. (These were limitations of previous versions. This newest version should "just work".) For full information on how this software is different, consult the README file.

This is the setup I use on my iLiad, and it works fine. If you have any problems, let me know.

Summary and Conclusion
  1. Install two of these 2800 mAh batteries.
  2. Upgrade the power management software (Attachment 22417).
  3. FULLY charge the iLiad while it is turned on.
Results :
  • New run-time (minimal use): 35 hours, 15 minutes.
  • Charging time: about 7-8 hours with the iLiad on, around 6 hours with the iLiad off.
The larger batteries add to the iLiad's weight, making it a little harder to hold it up in one hand for long periods. On the positive side, it also makes the iLiad feel more solid and stable in the hand.

The only drawback to this mod is the improvised software I had to add. My software is not as user-friendly and not as reliable as the iLiad's built-in battery hardware. However, if and when iRex releases the source codes for powerMgr and the battery kernel module, it should be easy to alter them so that the iLiad will work with and auto-detect almost any battery size.

In my opinion, this is a very powerful mod that greatly extends the iLiad's capabilities, and I'm definitely glad I did it!

Questions, comments, suggestions are welcome!
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Old 05-22-2009, 02:13 AM   #78
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Hi, jboardman--

I'm sorry it took me so long to respond! I've been really busy recently and I've been traveling for the last week, so I haven't even been checking the forums. I'm actually still on the road, but I finally had the time to check in.

Based on what you said above, it seems like you've installed it correctly. You don't need to do anything with the files in the src directory, they're only there for people who want to compile it themselves or otherwise play with the source code.

The first thing I'm thinking of is, do you have wireless or wired networking turned on? For example, if you have the "unbrickable" mod installed, your wired ethernet will automatically start when the iLiad boots up. Wired ethernet will more than halve your battery life -- that is, the iLiad uses about 2.5 times more current with wired ethernet on. You might also have something else installed that turns on ethernet or wireless and then fails to turn it off?

Another possibility is: are you using an SD/MMC/CF card? These will also increase power drain.

Let me know whether you've ruled out the above possibilities. If you have, I can send you a diagnostic program that will record the actual current drain and voltage while the iLiad is on. With a logfile from that we might get a hint about what's going on.

If we rule out all other possibilities, then it's possible that your batteries are defective. But I think this is highly unlikely; there must be another explanation.

(By the way, the modified powerMgr works by monitoring the battery voltage, so it should work correctly for any lithium-ion or lithium-polymer battery of any capacity.)

Hope this helps!
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Old 05-26-2009, 05:21 PM   #79
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Thanks, J.

I do use a CF card, although I don't think I need it. I am just judging by the battery meter icon, and guessing that I am getting about 15 - 20 hours out of the batteries. Is there something I can do to see if everything is working properly? Can I request a reading while in the shell?

And, I have another problem. I follow the instructions for installation of FBReader. The program seems to execute, but I find nothing in the Program folder when it finishes. Should the Program folder be on the device's main memory and not on the CF card?

Thanks again for all your trouble.

Jim
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Old 05-28-2009, 02:51 PM   #80
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Hmm... It's been a while since I used a CF card, but I recall that they use a fair amount of power. So it might be that 20 hours is about right. I have a diagnostic program kicking around somewhere... let me look for it and see if I can find it.

As for FBReader, I'm not sure about that, AdamB would be the person to ask, though.
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:20 AM   #81
trotzky
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I just want to report successful battery replacement for Book Edition. I used the same batteries as jharker.
I want to add few notes:
- The original batteries are not soldered in traditional way (can't be unsoldered with soldering iron), so the pipes of the old batteries have to be cut.
- when soldering, use tip that is about 1.5 mm, the smaller tips will not heat well the battery pipes and the board contacts (on the battery controller board)
- the length of the cable that connects the battery controller board to the main board is exact match for the original batteries size. Since the new batteries are longer, you have to be careful how much of the length of the battery pipes is left when soldering add how the battery board is bend over the batteries.

- Without jharker's patch, the battery meter showed completely drained battery (as in laozhang case, however, when i applied the patch (i do have the dev pack & ssh installed), the meter show full, but the LED was red, so i charged until the led turned
off, opened the case and mesure the the voltage. It was 4.15 V (on both batteries.) When i got the batteries, the voltage was 3.80 V and they got recharged in about 4 hours.

One strange thing: one of the batteries during the charging was warm (about 40 °C) and the other was cool. I don't know the reason for this, since the they had exactly the same charge (3.80V), but it seems that is ok (the first charge cycle passed ok)

Last edited by trotzky; 06-05-2009 at 02:34 AM.
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Old 06-10-2009, 10:52 AM   #82
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I am getting great battery life. It took about 4 or full charges to get there.
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:34 AM   #83
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Hello Jharker, thanks for such a detail explain.
But after I chage replace the files, I meet something wrong. I need your help!

After repalce the files, I power off my iliad 1st, then turn it on. Then I find the problem:
- I can not use SD card.(I knew it might happen before I do the change. I do not mind.)
- The indicator of battery on screen is always grey. It doesn't work.
- I can not connect my iliad by putty or Wincp any more.
Then I use mrxvt and run "ifconfig" in it. Previously, the ethernet ip address of ebook was shown, then I can connect to it by my computer. But this time, the informations below are shown on screen. Then I can not connect to my ebook. (I know the right ip, since I can check it on the Wireless Router)
/ # ifconfig
eth0 Link encap: Ehernet Hwaddr xx:xx:xx:xx:xx:xx
UP BROADCAST RUNNING MULTICAST MTU:1500 Metric:1
RX packets:0 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0
TX packets:7 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0
collisions:0 txqueuelen:100
RX bytes:0 (0.0 B) TX bytes:4130 (4.0 KiB)
Interrupt:36 Base address:0x300 DMA chan:8

lo Link encap: Local Loopback
intet addr:127.0.0.1 Mast: 255.0.0.0
UP BROADCAST RUNNING MULTICAST MTU:16436 Metric:1
RX packets:272 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0
TX packets:272 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0
collisions:0 txqueuelen:0
RX bytes:9296 (9.0 KiB) TX bytes:9296 (9.0 KiB)

What can I do now?? Thanks very much! Looking forward to your feedback!
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Old 08-01-2009, 01:36 PM   #84
frankiben123
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your tips really worked.. thanks a lot..
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Old 09-17-2009, 12:27 AM   #85
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Hi, just wanted to say thanks for your excellent instructions and post! After having my 1st gen iliad for two years the original batteries had gone completely kaput. I threw it in a corner until I decided to check out replacement options when I stumbled upon this article. It was a fun (and simple!) hack and I'm really glad to have my iliad back for less than 40 bucks!!!! Thanks a bunch, nice work.
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Old 10-19-2009, 07:29 AM   #86
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I'm another european Iliad owner that wants some battery packs but doesn't want to pay $75 for international shipping. Any suggestion?
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Old 10-28-2009, 01:06 AM   #87
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One of these might fit: (havent tried em tho...)

Code:
2*2800 = ca 90 euro after taxes from batteryspace.com

http://www.battshop.eu 13,- shipping


Li-Ion:

http://www.battshop.eu/kategorie/pda-batteries/acer/?prod=BA-1405106
li-ion
1200 64*42.7*4.6
17,68

http://www.battshop.eu/produkt/battery-t6-power-sbp-06-xp-06/
li-ion
1300 61.7*38.6*6.1
12,04 EUR

http://www.battshop.eu/kategorie/pda-batteries/dopod/?prod=TRIN160
PDA Batteries (Li-ion)
Volt: 3.70 V
Capacity: 1500.00 mAh
Weight: 30.05 g
Dimensions: 66.55x44.46x5.05 mm
11,29

http://www.battshop.eu/kategorie/pda-batteries/palmone/?prod=169-4399
li-poly????
PDA Batteries (Li-ion)
Volt: 4.20 V
Capacity: 1700.00 mAh
Weight: 33.50 g
Dimensions: 60.60x67.00x3.85 mm 

http://www.battshop.eu/produkt/battery-t6-power-451405-001-hstnh-s17b-459723-001-fa257a-359113-001/
PDA Batteries (li-ion)
Volt: 3.70 V
Capacity: 1800.00 mAh
Weight: 43.40 g
Dimensions: 74.00x53.50x6.10 mm 
10,32

http://www.battshop.eu/produkt/battery-t6-power-fa923aa-452294-001-hstnh-k18b-s-hstnh-k14b-hs-hstnh-i14c-k-452584-001/
PDA Batteries (li-ion)
Volt: 3.70 V
Capacity: 1940.00 mAh
Weight: 44.80 g
Dimensions: 74.47x52.12x5.50 mm 
10,88

http://www.battshop.eu/produkt/battery-t6-power-athe160-ba-s170/
PDA Batteries (Li-ion)
Volt: 3.70 V
Capacity: 2200.00 mAh <---1800 on batshop
Weight: 43.00 g
Dimensions: 72.85x54.85x5.85 mm 


Li-Polymer:

http://www.batt-mann.de/lipo.htm
KO2000HD04-LPL 
Capacity: 2000mAh 15 C  
Weight: 50 g
Dimensions: 83x42x6,0
17,90

http://www.battshop.eu/produkt/battery-t6-power-xp-16/
PDA Batteries (Li-polymer)
Volt: 3.70 V
Capacity: 1530.00 mAh
Weight: 30.45 g
Dimensions: 63.76x46.67x5.26 mm 
7,79 EUR

http://www.battshop.eu/produkt/battery-t6-power-3343ww-157-10105-00/
PDA Batteries (Li-polymer)
Volt: 3.70 V
Capacity: 1500.00 mAh
Weight: 34.25 g
Dimensions: 64.80x42.90x5.60 mm 
14,38 EUR

http://www.battshop.eu/produkt/battery-t6-power-sbp-14/
li-poly
1530 64mm x 47mm x 5mm
15,17 EUR 

http://www.battshop.eu/produkt/battery-t6-power-452292-002-hstnh-k14b-cs-hstnh-i14c-n/
PDA Batteries (Li-polymer)
Volt: 3.70 V
Capacity: 1590.00 mAh
Weight: 31.30 g
Dimensions: 66.40x44.38x5.52 mm 
11,10

http://www.battshop.eu/produkt/battery-t6-power-m-s1-bat-14392-001/
li-poly
Capacity: 	1500 mAh
Weight: 	28 g
Dimensions: 	66mm x 44mm x 5mm
11,66

http://www.battshop.eu/produkt/battery-t6-power-pu16a-1620-mah/
li-poly
Volt:  3.70 V
Capacity: 1620.00 mAh
Weight: 39.00 g
Dimensions: 71.00x56.60x4.50 mm (dremelen?)
13.02

http://www.battshop.eu/kategorie/pda-batteries/vodafone/?prod=SBP-14
PDA Batteries (Li-polymer)
Volt: 3.70 V
Capacity: 1350.00 mAh
Weight: 36.00 g
Dimensions: 64.42x47.50x5.12 mm 
15,17
Let us know if one of these works

Last edited by A4-; 10-28-2009 at 06:18 AM.
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Old 11-17-2009, 08:49 AM   #88
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Hi,

as you disconnected the battery pack, does the Iliad run without it being plugged in?
Has anybody measured all the voltages at the connector?

My Iliad does not start, Irex says it's probably the battery.
I measured about 8V at red wire of the battery pack, but zero on white and blue, all against black. Both batteries seem to be full (charging stops, ~4V each).
My device does not start, with the battery pack plugged in or not. (I only get a green light while pressing power)

thanks

p.s. irex wants EUR 125 in advance for replacing battery unit without being sure that this is the problem.

Last edited by ksiflhjla8; 11-17-2009 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 11-20-2009, 02:01 PM   #89
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How old is your Iliad? I had the same problem and had to send mine back. Remember, the 125 EUR includes shipping. I paid, sent the Iliad back, and seven days later (yes, only seven days) I got my Iliad back from IREX in perfect operating order!
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Old 11-22-2009, 03:21 PM   #90
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Device: iLiad, Kobo Glo
Battery seems just not plausible to me. I can't believe the device won't run when the battery is unplugged. Voltages seem normal when it's plugged in.
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