Rockbox has full skin support. I particularly like Julius's:
http://pijulius.blogspot.com/2006/05...pod-video.html
It really is a great program -- and no more itunes mucking around with your file structures. You can drag and drop your files natively, and rockbox will read them. It will also build a database so you can continue to access your files through the ID3 tags, just like the apple software. It will also read all sorts of other audio formats, and add video support to non-video ipods.
Personally I can't stand itunes. A 70 meg program to transfer mp3s to a hard drive? yuck! It's worse than the connect store, imho.