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If the small size doesn't bother you, I second the recommendation for the Kobo Mini. The small size is convenient, and the screen is somewhat more protected by the bezel. Mine's also survived a dunking, which really surprised me. I just stick it in a ziplock bag if it's likely to get wet. I don't try to read in wet conditions.
As others have noted, you can use an external light source if you do, in fact, need to read in darkness.
I read sideloaded books exclusively on it.
If you carry one of the various USB battery phone rechargers, you can easily keep it charged out in the field.
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