Here, I said:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kent Walters
... To use the cap sense switch to turn the device ‘on’ requires the circuitry to be always powered up--even while the device is ‘off’--with it’s clock running...
And
On my ‘experimental’ (broken screen) DR I have noticed that, when connecting the battery, the DR behaves exactly the same as when power is applied thru USB, and after being unplugged for a week, the battery was still fully charged; a power switch on the battery would have eliminated power drain while off, whether the drain was caused by the cap sense circuitry, a firmware bug or anything else.
And
Meanwhile, I’m installing a battery door and switch on my good 1000S.
|
If a full power down can be arranged thru software/firmware (and I don’t know), then curbarthedog’s USB suggestion is
excellent, in that it provides
no risk to the
DR or the
warranty. It could be done using a USB power pack, adding the advantage of extended runtime.
This weekend (hopefully) I will void my warranty and install a battery door on my good DR, just because I’m tired of continually charging it. I will also install a switch, but I’m having trouble coming up with a switch design that could be (relativly) easily implemented by others, who I presume do not have the machinery and tooling that I have. My goal is a switch that appears factory installed, and can be installed thru the battery door opening--a challenge, given the case’s design.
At some point warranties will expire, and/or the DR’s battery will reach the end of it’s life, and need replacement, anyway. I don’t know how many owners would want to send their DR’s to iRex; I will guess that iRex will charge something in the $75 to $100 range for a replacement, and likely take about two weeks (just guessing, mind you).
And Shaggy, power drain while ‘off’ is a
fact, regardless of it’s cause. The cap sense switches
must be powered in order to work, even just to turn the DR 'on.' My unplugged battery held it’s charge for a week, and was still
fully charged.
Kent Walters