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I'm about 150 (sony reader) pages in and so far it's pretty good. Best way I can describe it is like a cross between In The Name of the Rose and a fat fantasy novel, if Richard Dawkins and Stephen Hawking had collaborated on one; it takes time and patience - it's almost the exact opposite of a light read, and there's a steep learning curve that some reviews assure me will soon be over. It doesn't have quite the manic energy of Snow Crash and Zodiac (although the first couple of pages of actual narrative - once you're past the intro and notes - are classic Stephenson), but I'm thoroughly enjoying it.
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