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I too really enjoyed it. I didn't know any of the history of the OED and was amazed that the project could run so long without getting terminated along the way for lack of progress.
The author does go off on a lot of tangents and provides trivia about people surrounding the project but I found it all interesting. I had already read his book on Krakatoa so I was expecting this.
On my own tangent... I absolutely cringed during the self mutilation in Chapter 11. I really have to self examine why I'm so desensitized about the murder scene (which didn't get any reaction) but curled up in the fetal position when he pulled out the pen knife.
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