I haven't yet finished (I probably will in a day or two) which likely says something about the book, at least as far as I'm concerned.
I thought the first chapter with the vivid descriptions of India would lead to a highly satisfying read. But for reasons that I really can't pin down, the rest of the book hasn't been as appealing. I'm past the section in the caves, and agree that there is a shift in tenor of the book around that period but...
Further thoughts to follow on completion. So far at least just an average read.